The Luxury of a Healthier Environment

In what could be his final fashion show, Christian Lacroix presented an extravagant collection to the delight of fashion insiders and loyal customers in Paris in July. It was a demonstration of couture beyond reach. The intricate detailing and construction was a product of the ingenuity Mr. Lacroix has delivered for more than thirty years. It is reported that the collection took an unprecedented few weeks produced by a handful of unpaid staff.

This atypical achievement is typical in the world of luxury apparel – countless hours spent on creating an original design. From an environmental perspective, the luxury industry inherently is the new green economy.

In the case of luxury goods (apparel, speaking) versus mass production, the former scores higher points in terms of the environment. A bit ironic, no? Both can be viewed as exorbitant, unpractical (more of a want than a need), wasteful, and guaranteed a death sentence (purgatory = landfill). Ok, perhaps harsh choice of adjectives, but fair considering America’s appetite for the Big-Mac (i.e., all things materialistic).

[I am sensitive to the fact that a consumer’s wallet dictates what is a luxury item (clothes, jewelry, handbags, belts and shoes) or not. I am talking about ready-to-wear and haute couture retailing in the thousands - the items featured in Vogue or GQ that make you salivate but don’t come within reach of a non-profit salary.]

I’m not sure if Mr. Lacroix identifies himself as an environmentalist, but his method of production reinforces environmental and labor considerations. By employing a small team of sewers, pattern makers, and artisans, Mr. Lacroix preserves the role of the local artisan (and traditional craftsmanship) in lieu of outsourcing to another country, which would incur carbon emissions from the transportation of goods (or partially-assembled). Creating limited and/or custom-made goods prevents an inventory of unsold goods. And adhering to exact measurements eliminates the waste of fabrics.




Thanks to the growing impact of “eco-friendly” and “ethically-made” fashion, workers are being less exposed to harmful chemicals used in dying processes, landfills are shrinking, and consumers are turning green (environmental stewards, that is). Progress is being made. [It is not a stretch to say Stella McCartney for Chloe and Linda Loudermilk are the Queen Greens – luxurious and luxuriously-priced “eco” garments and accessories.]

But what if every designer adopted a holistic approach to its design process? In Cradle-to-Cradle, authors Michael Braungart and William McDonough advocate for the “up-cycling” of materials and replacing “less bad” design with good design. Alistar Fuad-Luke, noted for spearheading the slow design movement, emphasizes experience over speed. The resources available to designers are only good if the designer values the creative process equal to production.

On September 17, Women’s Wear Daily publication will be holding a forum addressing the future of the luxury industry in the new economy. I urge those in attendance to draw upon the very creativity and innovation it conceives for a solution and spare the notion of changing its current practices at the expense of the environment.

Can Menswear Save the Luxury Market?

In Dana Thomas’ Deluxe, the luxury market is in peril. The fashion industry’s matriarch is showing signs of aging and her offspring have merged into conglomerates leaving her wondering if her legacy is coming to an end.

The imagery is not far-fetched. The luxury market has fallen prey to salivating counterfeiters (despite courtroom battles and appeals to Congress for protection) and further wounded by major designers publicly stating their amusement of being copied. It has been losing its elite customers to the global recession and the Madoffs of the world, but what is probably most disconcerting is the art of craftsmanship replaced by machines and severely under-paid worker bees.

Who will come to her rescue? It appears this is a man’s job and a second-generation at that.

Haute couture’s little brother, menswear, has increasingly emerged as the luxury market’s saving grace.

Locally, menswear clothing stores such as Everard's Clothing, Redeem, and Lost Boys are experiencing relative progress when their womenswear counterparts are feeling the pinch.

The fact is men need clothes, too, and a suit from Men’s Warehouse is not landing or securing the job or the casual pair of jeans lasting for more than a season. So, they are turning to local ateliers or clothing stores to invest in quality brands or customized pieces that bring longevity and style.

Lost Boys is the visual for Dana Thomas’s summation that “luxury wasn’t simply a product, it was a lifestyle, one that denoted a history of tradition, superior quality and offered a pampered buying experience.” Kelly’s interpretation is a light-filled space in a row-house modernized by what a guy wants: a plasma TV, King-size sofa chairs, a refrigerator stocked with Stella Artois, off-set by exposed brick walls and hardwood floors – an updated lair.

Kelly Muccio, the 28-year-old fashion wunderkind behind Lost Boys, disagrees with the growing perception of the luxury markets’ demise. “This is the best time for independent designers and local businesses who offer what is considered a luxury good because the consumer realizes that they need to invest in a style and the luxury market gives you that.

“It is more important than ever to define your style,” continued the former financier. “This is the time to outperform and show yourself as a commodity and the easiest way to do that is to dress the part.”

Although Kelly considers her clothier as part of the luxury market, she does not equate it with “high-end.” The average cost of a pair of jeans sets him back $200 (i.e., Earnest Sewn), which is cheaper when you consider spending twice that much on jeans that are replaced year after year.

The “pampering” may come in the form of a beer and personal styling, but more so her trained eye for the highest quality pieces with style and brand authencity. Among the shortlist of designers she carries is eco-conscious designer Rogan Gregory, of Loomstate and Edun. The designer plans to design a t-shirt in collaboration with the store to be revealed this fall. Stay tuned for a future trunk show.

“We intentionally carry few designers because we believe in an minimalist wardrobe,” Kelly says. “I have personally edited the selection process for you where you are only going to find the best cut of jean or well-constructed shirt.”

Time will only tell how the luxury market survives this economic impasse. Perhaps, it’s fate rests in the hands of the little brother or its role in the environment (more on that in a following blog i.e., luxury goods sustainable through its slow production process and lifespan), but let’s not be too quick to write its obituary.


(Photos courtesy of Kelly Muccio, Lost Boys)

Redeem Us

Every city has its hotspots. For DC, the jazz scene dominated 14th Street NW in the early twentieth century. Speakeasies and other club dens attracted jazz legends and men who wore fedoras and wingtips and women who donned bold-colored dresses and hats with plumes.

This was where fashion and music synchronized.

Today, the historic HR-57 jazz club now calls upscale wine bars, clothing boutiques, and art galleries its neighbors. Dress code not apply.

In 2006, Lori Parkerson opened Redeem, a men’s and women’s clothing store located fortuitously a few blocks north of the club.

“I always saw fashion and music as equals,” says Lori, a DC native. Such revelation stems from her innate sense of style coupled with a career in the entertainment industry.

If we can learn anything from the fashion and music industry it is the notion that self-expression can take many forms – lyrically and figuratively. We sing and dress according to events and influences that were inspired by or resulted from change.

Henceforth, Redeem. Anointed on the storefront’s window is a modern depiction (etching) of the Agnus Dei, or Lamb of God. A gear replaces the halo. Christ, the redeemer. It intrigues by-passers who note this is not your ordinary clothing store. Walking by is simply not an option.

Upon entering, your senses are stimulated. The alternative rock music juxtaposes with vintage furniture instantly puts you in a groove. This is what urban renewal looks like.

“My friend who is a designer said once that you can’t choose your customer, and it is so true,” Lori exclaims. “Who we thought would be a customer turned out to be so much more than that. Our youngest customer was a 10-year-old girl who fit into a small-cut jean and then we have men and women well into their 60s.”

Age is irrelative when you consider a shared desire to own a luxury garment that takes the guessing out of “how to style.” Lori’s style influences her selection of timeless pieces where the attention is in the details.

Take the Wrath Arcane mens’ slim fitting black pants Lori sports with confidence. The menswear label takes a traditional design and embellishes it with buttons, frayed hemlines, or haphazardly-placed pockets. Religion, a UK-label, creates cinematic flare in its tailored mens and womens shirts.

“Confidence is what makes our pieces work,” Lori says, whose own style she describes as edgy.



You will not find the basic t-shirt here or mass-produced items, with the exception of the popular jean label, Earnest Sewn. Lori and her staff buy from independent designers, many of whom run in-house productions. Of late, Love Brigade, a Brooklyn-based design duo and DC-label, Plastic Heaven, are new additions exclusive to the store. Eco-fashionistas can find items from Covet’s spring 2009 collection, while Recession Rags’s Bermuda shorts made from vintage fabrics stay in stock for about a day (guys, more size 32 are on en route!). Think concert wear for neighboring 9:30 Club or Black Cat or just channeling your inner rock star.

The store actively participates in the Mid-City Business Association and has partnered with the Corcoran Gallery of Art in a project to promote the creative economy. And the first Thursday of each month, it hosts a knitters social club thanks to the store’s resident knitter, Christi.

For all its prosperity, Lori is humbled given the current economy. Her neighbor, Circle Boutique, was not so fortunate. The vacant space is a harsh reminder of the instability many small businesses are facing. In an effort to save local businesses in the U and 14th Street corridor, Redeem is part of a grassroots campaign encouraging customers to shop. The 350 Project asks customers to commit to spending $50 a month at any three favorite stores.

They didn’t have to twist my arm. After eyeing a taupe sleeveless shirt-dress by Covet, I was won over by a gold chain necklace with reclaimed strips of grey leather by AK Vintage (Portland-based jewelry designer). The necklace had a few strong contenders: Stolen Girlfriends Club (New Zealand) and the Realm collection by Jesse Walker (DC).

After my visit, I left feeling hopeful. I not only supported a local business and an independent (eco) designer, but found a deeper appreciation of our creative talents and in those that inspire change.

So, what are you waiting for? It’s time to get your groove on.

Nana Boutique Stocks Sweet (and eco-friendly) Designs

How does a girl acquaint herself to a new city? Explore the shopping district, of course. And that is what I set out to do six years ago on a spring day in DC’s U Street Cordoza area. The shops were sparse unlike today’s sprawl of locally owned boutiques, galleries, and restaurants. At the edge of 15th and U Street I descended a set of stairs and walked into Nana, a gem named after the owner’s grandmother.

My heart melted over the eclectic mix of vintage and contemporary. My first purchase was a consigned 1970s flower print floor length skirt that I had altered to the knee. It indulged my inner flower child and growing ethical fashion maven. Since then, the store has taken a progressive stance by incorporating more ethically produced fashions.

It started with Preloved, then Dagg and Stacey and has grown to include Peel, Kelly Lane, and newly inducted Mata Traders. All passing owner Jackie Flanagan and manager Sarah Spies’s design aesthetic challenge: innovative. And the fact that the designers utilize organic fabrics, safe dying processes and/or employ sustainable and fair working conditions is value added.

But does Nana consider itself an “ecoboutique”?

“We carry lines that give a nod to ethical fashion and are gravitating toward designers who use organic fabrics or fair labor,” says Spies. “Nana is really about smart designs and we want to promote designers who offer that.”

"It's not just "do we love the looks," added Flanagan, "it's do we love the looks AND they minimize the environmental impact or are creatively using the resources already available."

Designer Stats
Dagg and Stacey – Toronto, Canadian designers Karen Dagg and Stacey Paterson launched their line in 2001 with the intention of uniting quality and style. Designed and manufactured exclusively in Toronto working with independent trades people, Dagg and Stacey is a socially conscious company focusing on ecological issues and their community.

Preloved – Designer Julie Grieve and Creative Director Peter Friesen bring new meaning to reclaimed materials. The duo transforms vintage fabric/garments into modern styles (a vintage blazer turned into a high-waist skirt, par exemple). Watch for a home collection, an accessories line, and new clothing lines including a children’s line called me*me.

Peel – The Vancouver-based company produces 100% organic cotton tunics, loose-fitting blouses (with side pockets!) and dresses.

Kelly Lane – A newbie to the fashion world, Kelly Lane launched her line in 2007 to illustrate her talent for creating a soft and structured feminine silhouette. She uses eco-friendly materials and ethical practices with the assistance of local artisans. Kelly Lane is based in Pittsburgh, PA.

Mata Traders – The company maintains its Fair Trade Federation membership by working with women and artisan co-ops in India to produce clothes and jewelry.

So, will we see more? Flanagan says, "I like to think that by continuing to feature vintage clothing, we are highlighting fantastic clothing that is not using new materials. I also hope that by seeking out innovative local designs we are minimizing the impact of shipping goods from long distances. We are stocking more & more labels that use eco-friendly materials -- we are fortunate to see more & more labels that are not just eco-conscious but have a timeless, detail-driven look."

Are you new to the area? Then you must visit Nana, now located above ground.

Beautifying Mother Earth Goes More than Skin Deep

Last month we paused to reflect on our personal and global impact on Mother Earth. Truth be told, gathering for a concert to listen to eco-minded musicians and politicians doesn’t plant a tree or train a skilled laborer to wire a “smart” home. Recognition months or one-day observances mark a-ha moments and then quickly fade from our radar save practitioners (= individuals, organizations, governments, and private entities) who are committed to cultivating a more sustainable world.

Aveda is one such practitioner.

For years I have treated myself to spa services at the Aveda Institute. Their budget-friendly rates (practitioners are students in training) is merely a bonus in comparison to the rich variety of certified organic ingredients used in everything from make-up to hair treatments to body lotions. You genuinely feel the company’s philosophy “that authentic beauty is one that works in harmony with the greater web of life.”

Aveda’s social responsible-laden agenda includes monthly environmental and human rights campaigns that have raised millions of dollars for organizations and incited public action. Local and global clean water is at the heart their Earth Month campaign, an issue that is severely unreported in mainstream media despite its threat against the environment and the poor.

Just how threatening is clean water’s scarcity? According to UNICEF, 2.5 billion citizens lack sanitation facilities and 884 million use unsafe water sources. Meanwhile, pesticides and pollution strip our streams of its natural properties, harming the fragile ecosystem.

Since 2007, Aveda has brought clean water to our attention through special events and educational resources. In April, there was the Aveda Walk for Water and throughout May, proceeds of the Light the Way™ Candle, made with certified organic French lavender, go to support Global Greengrants Fund's (GGF) water-related projects.

I recently purchased the candle and a body cleanser made with certified lavender as a birthday gift for a friend. This small act reached beyond one individual – it supported a company that aims to do good by supporting others, which includes the greatest “other” – our planet.

For more information on water issues, visit Clean Water Fund, Water Advocates and The Natural Resources Defense Council.

E-Commerce In Time for Earth Day

Earth Day in Washington is like a mini-Woodstock revival. The concerts and information tents on the Mall attract a garden variety of locals and tourists fashioning colorful statement wear. Regardless of the era, everyone wants to make Mother Nature happy. And the fashion industry is no exception.

A year ago, My Signature Look introduced you to its favorite eco-fashion designers. And while we don’t believe wearing eco-fashion is a once-a-year event, we wanted to continue the “green” tradition by spotlighting a few e-commerce sites that unearths independent eco-labels taking root in the industry.

One site of special note is YOOX.com. The darling of the discounted designer sites has just launched YOOXYGEN, a new site featuring ethically conscious products. Its top sellers include jewelry designer Ilaria Venturini Fendi’s accessories and jewelry line made from recycled materials; Katharine Hamnett's organic cotton slogan tees, Caboclo jewelry, made from natural objects found on the Brazilian Amazon rainforest floors, and Leny, the eco-friendly brand whose profits support Al Gore's Climate Project.

The company has also partnered with AzzeroCO2 to offset 100% of its shipping carbon footprint by the use of clean energy and reforestation. Now, that is corporate social responsibility!

Here are a few other favorite gateways to eco-fashion pioneers and emerging talent:

Embodies – e-commerce and boutique, located in Larksuper, CA
Fashion Ethic
Green Edge Kids – organic children’s clothes
Juno and Jove – e-commerce and boutique, located in Sarasota, FL
Loomstate for Target – 100% organic tees, dresses, and pants
Olsenhaus – vegan shoes
Shop Envi
Verdessence

If you have a favorite eco-fashion e-commerce site or brick-and-mortar store, please do let us know! We will post a comprehensive list (well, it may be a never-ending list!) and future articles on eco-fashion designers, books, and other products that promote a “green” lifestyle.

Inaugural Moments for All

The My Signature Look blog has awaken from a long winter's nap since its last entry in December, but its commentary on today's fashion industry lived on through other writing mediums. As many of you know, I have been actively involved in the Greater Washington Fashion Chamber of Commerce for more than a year serving as the writer/editor of its monthly newsletter and in event promotion. In late December, the GWFCC partnered with ShockTheory, an Atlanta-based communications firm, to launch LuxStyle DC, a new and improved online newsletter. The billed "Inaugural" edition featured new members, trend reports, interviews from the red carpet at several inaugural balls, and a cover story on Kai Milla, fashion designer and wife of Stevie Wonder. I had the fortune of interviewing Ms. Milla, albeit through email correspondence, about the inspiration behind her Presidential Inaugural Collection 2009. The Washington-native also offered advice to aspiring designers worth reprinting here, "My husband once told me, 'Designing is the same thing as music. When you do something, it's forever recorded. Do it right and you will never be bothered by it.' As a result of that good advice I never compromise on the detail."

[Detail was not lost in the flawless inaugural ensembles the Obamas sported on Inauguration Day. Congratulations to Isabel Toledo, Jason Wu, Loree Rodkin and Jimmy Choo for capturing Michelle Obama's elegance and sophistication, and to J Crew for matching Malia's and Sasha's youthful charm and innocence].

Milla's remarks apply not only to designers but everyone who strives to excel at what they do. I hope LuxStyle achieves its mission by bringing thoughtful, in-depth coverage to the DC-area fashion community and the My Signature Look blog to continue to offer a unique perspective on the fashion scene locally and worldwide. Here is to dreaming big but not forgetting the details along the way.